Category Archives: Travel

The Angel of Grafton Street

On Grafton Street in white and gold, with regal wings and upturned palms, a painted statue is ignored by most. Two lads approach, coins in hand, not really seeing her. She comes to life and startles both, yet cheers their … Continue reading

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Sleeping in the Sahara

In the Sahara, collapsed on a carpet, air so dry my eyeballs ache, colors transform, beige to orange to black. Nearby, unseen, a camel’s never-ending chewing keeps me company. I drift, under a purer black than I’ve ever known and … Continue reading

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Lost in Cuzco

During my first day in Peru last August, my mushy brain and I kept stumbling over simple questions. I had started at sea level 20 hours before, endured a cheap-flight marathon through five airports, and crashed in a hotel room … Continue reading

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Absinthe in Amsterdam

My husband and I stayed in the old section of Amsterdam during a brief February visit in 2010. The canals and narrow canal houses are gorgeous, and we most enjoyed exploring the old neighborhoods on foot. It was very cold, … Continue reading

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Whether by yak or by Harley, let’s get out there

My camel’s shadow as I journey into the Sahara I like the slant of this travel list: 49 journeys that’ll change your life. On the list, they cram in as many SMTs as possible–that’s suggested modes of transport. Some of … Continue reading

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What I Ate in Peru: Guinea Pig Anyone?

For “What I Ate Wednesday,” I would like to share what I ate in Peru. I tried to sample a lot of traditional Peruvian cuisine, but I was less adventurous than usual when I first arrived. I wanted to be … Continue reading

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Hiking the Inca Trail, Day 4: Race to the Sun Gate and Machu Picchu

“Life is a journey, not a destination.” –Ralph Waldo Emerson Day 4–Wiñaywayna to Intipunku (Sun Gate), approx. distance: 2.5 miles (4 km), approx. time: 1.5 hours; plus a walk down to Machu Picchu {See also: Preparation | Day 1 | … Continue reading

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Hiking the Inca Trail, Day 3: The Long and Winding Road

“The long and winding road that leads to your door Will never disappear.” –The Beatles Day 3: Paqaymayo to Wiñaywayna, approx. distance: 11 miles (18 km), approx. time: 8 hours. {See also: Hiking the Inca Trail: Preparation | Day 1 … Continue reading

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Hiking the Inca Trail, Day 2: Nobody Messes with Dead Woman’s Pass

“A journey of a thousand miles begins with one step.” –Lao Tzu Day 2: Wayllabamba to Paqaymayo, approx. distance: 7.5 miles (12 km), approx. time: 6-7 hours {See also: Hiking the Inca Trail: Preparation | Day 1 | Day 3 … Continue reading

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Hiking the Inca Trail, Day 1: Peruvian Flatlands

“Put one foot in front of the other And soon you’ll be walking ‘cross the floor.” –Kris Kringle, Santa Claus is Comin’ to Town Day 1: Km 82 to Wayllambama, approx. distance: 7 miles (11 km), approx. time: 5-6 hours … Continue reading

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